I've been largely based at a youth hostel on Oahu's fabled North Shore- the seven mile mecca for surfers from around the world. I was inspired by seeing Shaun Thomson speak and reading his book, The Code, to come and try out the winter swell for myself. There are multiple spots along the North Shore and it isn't all huge.
So far I've surfed at some more basic spots, Chun's Reef and Freddieland, and some more advanced spots- Haleiwa, Vlazyland (did alright there), Sunset Beach, and actually went out at Pipeline and Rockpiles on a small day. It's been challenging and a learning curve as to where to go and with what board. I bought a 7'8" mini-gun off a guy and it's a cool board, but not right for me. I took out an 8'0 at Chun's Reef which worked well, but was crazy busy. That's the other issue- so many travelers here, surf pilgrims from all over the world, so the water is crowded. But I've met some cool folks from Brazil, Chile, New Zealand, Australia, Israel, France, Germany, and Switzerland.
Beyond surfing, I've been hiking, seeing some sights, chilling on some amazing beaches (saw a swimsuit photo shoot the other day), and taking a couple vacations from my vacation in Waikiki, which was much needed and awesome. Basically I've been getting around on foot, bike, or bus. Been eating a lot of caveman style meals from the local Foodland supermarket. Feeling lucky, overall. Just been important to take breaks and come back.
Aloha!
G
